The next morning, we awoke in Longyearbyen, tired from the long journey the prior day. While we tried our best to sleep in, our day was set to be full of adventure: a full day hike up a mountain with what sounded like very promising views of the area. Reviews were positive of the tour, though some comments said it was challenging, words which seemed to reverberate in the back of our minds that morning. We reluctantly got dressed and headed downstairs to the lobby for some breakfast. The breakfast was was a well-done buffet with a variety of hearty dishes, pastries, and fruits. We loaded up on calories, wanting to ensure we had enough sustenance for the hike.
Breakfast was quicker than planned, so we unpacked our cameras and walked around the city to enjoy the sights and get our lenses ready for later in the day. The city of Longyearbyen itself was breathtaking. The way the colorful buildings of deep reds, aqua blues, and golden yellows contrasted against the dark, rocky snowcapped mountains was surreal. You truly felt like you were in a remote, hidden part of the world.
After some exploration downtown, it was time to get layered up for the hike, so we headed back to the hotel. Along the way, we managed to snag some photos of white Svalbard reindeer up in the mountains surrounding the hotel. We were ecstatic, though we did not realize how many other times we’d see these beauties throughout our stay.
Layers and layers were applied, and our hiking backpacks were full of the necessities: water, snacks, winter gear, and our cameras. We had watched Longyearbyen’s “official” video on how to pack for the season: layers and wool were recommended. We headed downstairs as the van pulled up to our hotel, and we climbed inside. Several other hikers were already in the van, and we introduced ourselves, exchanging pleasantries. It was not long before we were leaving the city, heading past the warning sign alerting those exiting the city that there were polar bears nearby, and it was a requirement to have a rifle with you (just in case). (Disclaimer: our tour guide carried one with her to keep us safe).
Our tour guide explained what the day entailed as we made our way to the base of a nearby mountain. It would be a roughly ten mile hike up a mountain to a glacier, and then down into the valley outside of Longyearbyen. From there, we would stop for lunch at a cabin with packed lunches and then hike back to the town. Because of the recent snow, she warned that the hike would likely be slippery and cold. We, of course, were ready with our layers!
Soon enough we made it to the beginning of the trail, parked, and hopped out of the van, stretching our legs in preparation for the hike. Our tour guide brought along her husky, which had been sitting quietly in the back of the van. The husky, whose name was “Cheeky”, jumped out and said hello to us all. After Cheeky got in some sniffs and pets, our tour guide handed us all ice cleats to wear once we arrived at the glacier. We packed them in our bags and began our trek up the mountain.
We chatted as we made our way through the freshly fallen snow. Soon we had views from the top of the mountain, overlooking the valley and Longyearbyen. The views were incredble. We walked past several old mining structures. Longyearbyen was long known as a mining town. It started in the early 1900s, peaking in the 1920s. In an effort to curb environmental impact and reduce reliance on coal, the final mine was closed in 2025. Over the course of its history, Longyearbyen produced several million tons of coal. In speaking with locals, some were concerned about the closure last year, as the community will now be entirely reliant on scientific research and tourism. Our tour guide seemed optimistic though.
After a decent while, we arrived at the glacier, and were told to put on our ice cleats. They were a welcome addition as the rocks and snow were become increasingly slick. The cleats gave us stable footing as we trekked along the ice. Our tour guide took us to an area where the glacier was melting, a gorge edged into the ice. We stopped for photographs, and then made our way down. It was a surreal experiencing hiking inside of a glacier at the top of the world, but our senses were highetned given the technicality of the hike. Ice cold water was rushing past us, with minimal room for error. Just as we began climbing back out of the glacier, one of our hiking mates fell into the water. He was hoisted out, thankfully only getting submerged up to his knees. It was a reminder of where we were, and the seriousness of the hike. We did not want to have to be rescued!
After making sure our hiking mate was alright, it was time to leave the glacier and begin the toughest part of the hike. We had to climb up the top of the mountain before making our descent. When I say this, I mean it: this was one of the hardest hikes I’ve ever done, technically speaking. The top of the mountain was full of huge, loose boulders. Since they were covered in snow, each step was a guess once placing your hiking pole in the ground. Would my foot hit a rock? Or would my foot get stuck in between? This part of the hike was honestly scary- the last thing I wanted was to get hurt at the top of this mountain and wait for search and rescue.
After what felt like hours (it was not hours!) we finally saw the crest of the mountain. Our jaws dropped as we saw the valley before us, lush green fields before us, juxtaposed against the stark, snowy mountains. We continued our way down the moutain, eventually making it to the valley. A lone cabin was in view, and that was our stop for lunch. We collapsed in inside the cabin, heating up hot water to cook our premade meals. We all chatted about the hike, travel plans, and our lives. It was a great moment, sitting inside the cozy cabin in the middle of nowwhere with new friends.
Before long, it was time to head out. The rest of the hike was easy, with flat terrain in the valley, but boy was it was muddy! At long last, we made it to the van for the final part of the hike: a visit to the husky den! We hopped in the van, taking our husky back to her den. Once we arrived, we met husky puppies, and were able to hop into their cage and play with them. We met the adults, and then it was time to depart. It was a bittersweet moment after the once-in-a-lifetime experience.
We were dropped off at our hotel. We hopped in the shower; while it was chilly out, the hike worked up a sweat. Next on our itinerary was a brewery tour at Svalbard brewery- the northernmost brewery in the world. For those of you who know me well (or even just sort of know me) you know I am a huge beer fan. I was so excited to try this place out!
We began walking to the brewery for the time slot, only to find out that Google had led us astray. There was road contruction, and the road from our hotel was blocked off (actually missing), so we had to retrace our steps and walk to the brewery another way. We were late- so we called the berwery to let them know. I was not going to let us miss this!
So much for showering! After working up a sweat, we finally made it! True to a brewery, Svalbard Bryggeri (Brewery) is nestled within the shipping port, hidden between warehouses along the Adventfjorden. We checked in with the hostess, who brought us up to the brewery tour. Thankfully we weren’t that late, and we took a seat next to a couple. Over the course of the next hour or so, we learned about the brewery’s history and the beer currently produced there. Svalbard Bryggeri has an interesting history. A law in the 1920s banned any production of alcohol on the Svalbard archipelago, an effort to thwart miners from brewing their own and showing up to the mines intoxicated. In fact, residents still have a monthly quota limiting how much alcohol they can purchase, receiving a stamp card each month for tracking purposes. Our tour guide earlier in the day even showed us hers! The owner of the Bryggeri spent nearly ten years working with local officials to make an exception for their brewery. It finally paid off.
Soon we wrapped up the brewery tasting. Given the long day, we decided to grab a quick dinner afterwards prior to bed. We stopped at the Barentz Gastropub and had some pizza. On our way back to the hotel, we tried spotting the northern lights, but unfortunately we were too early in the year. Even at 11pm in mid-September the sky was still decently light, the summer midnight sun sill making its last show. Maybe next time.
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